SPLENDOR COLLECTIVE

Expert Tips on How to Buy Vintage Fine Jewelry 

The interest and demand for antique and vintage jewelry has exploded in recent years with the popularity of vintage and one-of-a-kind pieces piquing the interest of jewelry lovers, brides-to-be, and consumers with a little bit of side money. In an environment where just buying more stuff is really wasteful, jewelry is a big ticket item that is heirloom worthy and retains its value. 

You can generally buy a piece of jewelry made with higher value diamonds and metal if you purchase a second hand piece than if you were to purchase the same piece brand new. This is even true with second hand diamond engagement rings. Keep reading to learn how to identify and buy antique and vintage jewelry.

Research

You want to get as much information as you can on a piece before buying it because there are tons of fakes out there. Ask the dealer for history and condition reports – those will tell you who owned the piece before, give you a good idea of authenticity, and offer insight on how much the piece is worth. With designer pieces, look for the signature, original box/packaging and paperwork. I will only buy designer jewelry if I can see it in person and really inspect it. You want to look for all of the details noted above but also just feel the piece, as any piece of vintage jewelry worth purchasing should have a substantial feel and weight to it. 

Tip: You can also inspect the piece to help identify if it’s truly vintage. The type of clasps used on jewelry can represent the time period they were created in. C clasps, trombone clasps, box clasps, and ring clasps were all widely used in vintage jewelry creation, while lobster clasps weren’t popularized or used until the 70s. 

Designer/Signed Jewelry

A designer piece should always have a signature. Without that signature, pieces from important designers like Bvlgari or Cartier wouldn’t be the same investment because they don’t have the credibility and won’t hold value in the way a signed piece would. However, just because a piece has a signature doesn’t mean that you should buy it; it could be a fake or just not what you want. I think it’s most important that you buy a piece that you love, not simply because it’s a popular or iconic style. If you buy what you love, then your investment will pay off and you’ll have that piece forever. I have thoughts on that here. For example, Cartier and Rolex watches are most popular but I prefer Bvlgari Tobogas or antique Art Deco diamond watches. I will never afford either, but I won’t pay (or settle) for Rolex or Cartier because you know I don’t do anything half ass. 

Tip: If you love a particular designer piece that’s trendy, I recommend looking for costume jewelry as an alternative to save money. Whether it’s designer costume jewelry like Dior or Givenchy or simply a silver looking conch belt, if it’s an item you’re not invested in for the long term, save your money and buy costume.  

Tip: Here’s a great directory of Maker’s Marks that you can reference during your research and while shopping. 

Unsigned Jewelry

I don’t have any signed vintage designer jewelry because there are so many great unsigned pieces out there – especially from the 60s-80s. Much like my thrifting and vintage trick to finding cool garments, I search for “signatures” or “trends” such as the gas pipe chain that Bvlgari uses but is super common in vintage jewelry. Cartier’s screw design is a “signature” or “trend” but it’s faked so much it’s not a classic design flair that is worth spending money on. Researching these designer signatures is an easy way to get the look for less but still invest in quality fine jewelry. 

Tip: if you’re not sure what you like, search websites like 1st Dibs, Ruby Lane and Pinterest and start collecting images and descriptions for what you like. Perhaps it’s a designer, decade, or style (I personally love snake jewelry!). Collect these reference images for when you’re shopping so you can provide the dealer with inspo/wish list items. 

Paperwork/Certification

Having the serial number or certification is no longer sufficient for buying designer jewelry. If you are buying from a private seller, ask for records of maintenance, registration paperwork, and any other papers that can speak to the authenticity of the watch. However, do not rely blindly on the papers. Always get the item authenticated by a third party. Ensure that any maintenance, especially on watches, is solely done by the maker and not another party. Maintenance or repair on a watch done by a third party can reduce the value of a designer watch. 

Tip: This is an authentication service that came recommended by a few dealers when I asked them for an online option. Many jewelry centers and dealers provide authentication in person so if you have a go-to spot locally, ask them if they provide this service and if they specialize in a designer or type of jewelry.  

Condition

Always inspect vintage jewelry and watches and remember they will have some flaws because they are used! Also, most vintage and antique jewelry was handcrafted so you’ll have some variety as a result. 

• If your jewelry or watch was repaired, ensure it was done by the maker or certified repair company.
• Ask for the repair and maintenance history and confirm these repairs were in fact made.
• If the item has scratches and marks, ask if they can be polished out. In my experience, dealers will polish out most scratches and marks even before displaying for sale but it’s important to ask. 
• For jewelry, ensure the prongs aren’t loose or mangled, clasps are strong and functioning, and there are no broken links in the chain. For watches, ensure the dial has no water stains and links on the bracelet are snug. 
• For semi-precious stones, refer to this guide. 

Quality

I can’t stress this enough when buying vintage: Nothing is made the same way anymore, across the board. We put a man on the moon, take alcohol bevvies to go, but we’ve managed to allow cheap quality on everything. There’s no comparison to the level of craftsmanship of vintage pieces when compared with their modern counterparts. With vintage jewelry, you can really see the artist’s hand in the design, craftsmanship, and weight of the piece. Many vintage pieces were handcrafted so you may see some minor imperfections but the upside is that it’s not just another mass-produced item. I will say, if you buy from small jewelry brands like Perez Bitan or Marrow Fine, you will get that special attention to detail and quality. 

Disclosure: I own jewelry from both woman-owned jewelry brands and consider them friends. 

Tip: To get an idea of antique or vintage jewelry quality, head to estate sales, antique jewelry shows, or your nearest jewelry dealer. Ask to see pieces from different decades or designers and just note the weight, the details, and overall style.

Value

Vintage fine jewelry can range from a few hundred dollars to the millions depending on what you’re looking for. No matter the price point, valuable antique and vintage jewelry is all about high levels of craftsmanship and design. When it comes to buying a piece, as the saying goes, “if it seems too good to be true, it probably is” – especially when it comes to fine jewelry. Sure, you may pick up a real gold ring at a garage sale (it happens!) but let’s focus on what happens most of the time. Antique fine jewelry and luxury watches are not cheap! With vintage or second hand designer jewelry, you’re paying for the brand name and the precious metals and gemstones. The price for a Cartier watch should be in the thousands, not in the hundreds. When it comes to unsigned jewelry, the upside with buying vintage or second hand is you pay for the current price of gold and gemstone, not the makeup of craftsmanship as you would with a new piece.

Vintage and Secondhand Designer Jewelry

If you’re shopping for designer, these are the five best value retaining jewelry brands:

1. Cartier
2. Van Cleef & Arpels 
3. Harry Winston
4. Tiffany & Co. 
5. David Yurman 

While these retain the most value, don’t buy a piece thinking of resale. In my opinion, if you’re investing in fine jewelry (in the thousands) you’re buying to keep for the long term. 

Where to buy second hand designer jewelry

I highly recommend purchasing from a dealer or estate sale where a jeweler is handling the fine jewelry appraisals and sales. Of course, you can shop on The Real Real, 1st Dibs, Langs Antiques, and other sites (as they provide authentication services), but they tend to be a bit pricier. If you purchase from a dealer, ensure the jewelry comes with original paperwork and provenance as noted in the earlier part of this guide. Most reputable jewelers will allow you to take the piece or at least photograph the item for an appraisal and authentication. 

Finding a reputable dealer is just as important as finding the right vintage jewelry. I’ve been shopping at the Downtown Jewelry Mart for years and have gotten to know many dealers. I even ask other dealers about the dealers I shop because reputation matters! The right dealer understands how complex and stressful the process of purchasing fine jewelry can be and should help make the process seamless. If you ever feel uncomfortable or pressured while making your decision, find another dealer. In my experience, a trusted dealer will guide you through the process, answer all of your questions, and address any concerns that you might have. 

Iconic Vintage Fine Jewelry (Search Terms)

There is a lot of iconic vintage fine jewelry and as noted above, you need to research to see what stands out for you. There are the usual popular brands like Tiffany & Co, Cartier, and Bvlgari but here are some other keywords and brands to have on your radar. 

• Albert Chain (used for a pocket watch but looks great as a necklace)
• Angel Coral
• Art Deco Sapphire Ring
• Boucheron
• Buccellati
• Burmese Ruby
• Cabochon (rings,necklaces and bracelets)
• Cameo
• Carrera y Carrera 
• Chunky Gold Chain
• Cluster Diamond Ring
• Croissant Dome (rings and huggies and hoops)
• David Webb
• Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co
• Georgian
• Herringbone Chain 
• Marina B
• Mikimoto Pearl Strand Necklace
• Minimalist 60s Choker
• Persian Turquoise 
• Rivière necklace (any color gemstone)
• Schlumberger
• Serpent or Snake (ring, necklace, bracelet)
• Statement Cocktail Ring (you know I have a thing for Persian Turquoise)
• Charms (can be used as a pendent or add to a bracelet)
• Victorian

Jewelry Quick Facts

Yellow & White Gold

Both yellow gold and white gold contain pure gold but because of pure gold’s softness, jewelers began mixing pure gold with other materials to increase durability of their pieces. Yellow gold is mixed with yellow colored materials like copper while white gold is mixed with white colored materials like nickel and silver.

Gold can be identified by purity marker stamps; look for valid purity numbers by the Karat system (8k, 9k, 10k, 14k, 15k, 18k, 20k, or 21k) or by the Millesimal Fineness system (333, 417, 583, 585, 625, 750, 833, 875, 916, 958 or 999). The higher the number, the purer the gold (and the more expensive). For example, ‘14k’ or ‘585’ would indicate 14 karat gold or 58.5 % gold.

Platinum

Platinum looks like white gold but comes at a higher price due to its purity and durability. Look for a stamp that reads ‘85 pt’ or ‘850 plat,’ which indicates the percentage of pure platinum used. 

Sterling Silver

Silver is made of 92.5% pure silver and a small amount of alloy (usually copper), and is identified by a ‘925’ stamp. If you’re not sure if a piece is composed of white gold or silver, the ‘925’ stamp is a solid way to know what you’re looking at.