A Guide to Discovering Vintage and Secondhand Designer Shoes

Hi, Collective Members, to another edition of the insider scoop where I unveil the secrets and my favorites of the thrifting and fashion world. I was recently asked about my favorite vintage designer shoe brands as well as buying designer shoes second hand, so I thought it’s time we deep a deep dive! Let’s explore how to find these treasures, considerations for sizing and shoe condition, and recommendations for shoe cobblers who specialize in vintage shoe repairs.

1. Embrace the Thrill of the Hunt:

As you know, thrift stores, consignment shops, online marketplaces like The Real Real and eBay are all filled with shoes. My go to for vintage and designer shoes though are estate sales because if you hit the right home, then it’s a gold mine for the best selection and deals. I once went to an estate sale and the woman had a thing for Ferragamo loafers (she had about 50 pairs) but they were all a size 7. Another home was filled with Gucci heels in a size 5.5. You catch my drift – chances are you’ll hit the home that has your size! If you prefer to shop online, I highly recommend eBay because of the saved search alert or The Real Real because of sheer inventory. TRR has tons of items that are regularly marked down so you can score Prada pumps for over 70% off retail!

2. Authenticity is Key:

When buying vintage designer shoes, it’s crucial to ensure their authenticity. Familiarize yourself with the brand’s signature details, logos, and markings. Research online forums, brand-specific guides, or consult experts to verify the legitimacy of a pair. I always add this because there are tons of fakes out there for contemporary shoes like the Chanel espadrilles or Prada loafers. However, changes are the vintage pair is authentic but you should still ensure the company’s authentication process.

3. Understanding Sizing:

Vintage shoe sizing can differ from contemporary sizing standards. It’s essential to understand the variations and measurements used by different designers and eras. Familiarize yourself with conversion charts and take accurate measurements of your feet before purchasing. Vintage shoes tend to have narrower widths compared to contemporary shoes. Women’s feet were often expected to be slimmer, so vintage shoes may not accommodate wider feet as comfortably. Many vintage designer shoes, especially those from European brands, follow European sizing conventions. European sizes differ from US sizes, so it’s crucial to be familiar with the corresponding conversion chart. For example, a vintage shoe marked as a European size 38 may correspond to a US size 7 or 7.5. I’m typically a modern size 8 but my vintage shoes range anywhere from size 38 – 39. While not entirely an accurate way to size, measure your foot and several pairs of shoes to estimate your inner sole and compare to the item if you’re shopping online. When in doubt, reach out to the seller for additional information.

4. Evaluating Shoe Condition:

Vintage shoes, particularly those that have been pre-loved, may require a closer inspection because they’ve been worn. Here are some essential factors to consider:

– Sole Wear: Assess the condition of the soles, looking for excessive wear, cracks, or separation from the shoe’s upper. Minor scuffing can be repaired by a skilled cobbler. I have had the entire sole replaced on designer shoes for about $20 so it’s possible to completely transform some well worn shoes but factor in cost.

– Leather Quality: Examine the leather for scratches, creases, or signs of aging. Small imperfections can add character and can be repaired, but ensure they won’t affect the shoe’s overall integrity.

– Heel Stability: Check the heels for wobbling or loose attachments. Replacing or repairing a damaged heel is often feasible with the help of a cobbler.

Favorite Vintage Designer Shoe Brands

When it comes to unique, fun, and high-quality vintage shoe designer brands, these are a handful that I love and always keep an eye out for when shopping. Of course, there are many contemporary brands that I love and those are easily found but these gems are more low key.

Charles Jourdan: A renowned French shoe designer, Charles Jourdan created bold and statement-making shoes and boots during the mid-20th century. His vintage designs often feature vibrant colors, sleek silhouettes, and unique detailing. I have this as a saved search on every single platform because I love his designs so much. I typically wear a modern size 8 and I wear a 39 in vintage designs.

Beverly Feldman: an American shoe designer known for her whimsical, eclectic, and playful designs. Feldman’s vintage shoes often feature vibrant colors, intricate embellishments, and unique details like bows, flowers, and sequins.

Onex: While not as well-known as some other vintage shoe brands, Onex gained popularity during the 1970s and 1980s for its focus on providing comfortable and stylish shoes. Vintage Onex shoes often feature cushioned insoles, flexible materials, and supportive construction, and many of them feature a playful or interesting heel design.

Roger Vivier: Renowned for his innovative designs and credited with creating the stiletto heel, Roger Vivier is a true icon of vintage footwear. His vintage shoes feature intricate embellishments, bold patterns, and unique shapes, offering a touch of glamour and sophistication.

Saks Fifth Avenue or Neiman Marcus: Many brands contributed to the rich and diverse range of fashion offerings at Saks and Neiman’s through special collections. These brands wanted to design special pieces or collection for the clientele so even if you don’t recognize the designer the Saks and Neiman’s label is a tell tale sign that you’re picking up fashion history.

Manolo Blahnik: Manolo’s vintage designs exude timeless elegance and femininity – obviously! My go to kitten heels and wedges are all Manolo’s that I thrifted for under $20. They’re so comfortable and can be easily repaired to give them extra life. I have to include on this list because I find vintage Manolo’s regularly on eBay for less than $50 and all it takes is a $20 cobbler visit to restore them.

Salvatore Ferragamo: Ferragamo’s vintage shoes exude elegance and sophistication that is similar to the contemporary line. Look out for their iconic bow-adorned pumps, colorful leather loafers, and sculptural heels.

These are the contemporary brands that I like to buy second hand:

Ralph Lauren Loafers and Boots

Jimmy Choo

Prada & MiuMiu – I will die on this hill that Prada and MiuMiu are the most comfortable designer heels

Lucchese Cowboy Boots – Check out this guide for more info on the different vintage cowboy boot brands

Gucci – boots, loafers, platforms – everything!

Sophia Webster – if you love colorful and funky shoes

Zara – don’t kill me for this one but I’ve found very comfortable brand new with tags Zara heels at the thrift store for under $10. I only buy real leather and avoid anything synthetic!

Building a Relationship with a Shoe Cobbler:

A trusted and skilled cobbler is an invaluable resource for maintaining and repairing your vintage shoes. Look for cobblers with expertise in working with luxury footwear or those who specialize in vintage restorations. I always seek recommendations from local fashion communities or vintage enthusiasts because the wrong cobbler can ruin your shoes. I also read through all of the Google or Yelp reviews and always ask for prices up front before I commit! A reputable cobbler can breathe new life into worn-out soles, refurbish damaged leather, or replace missing components, ensuring your vintage gems last for years to come. I’m currently looking for a new cobbler because mine retired and no one is taking over the family biz! I had such a great relationship with my cobbler – he knew exactly how I liked my shoes repaired and loved restoring my new and vintage finds. When I say build a relationship, it’s important to have this trust with a skilled tradesperson to help maintain the quality of your vintage!

My curated finds: