Call it an obsession because cowboy boots have always been on thrift shopping list. They are the quintessential American shoe and conveniently pair well with the classic Ralph Lauren blazer (another long time favorite vintage piece). While we’re at it, throw them together with some Levi’s and a University sweatshirt and you have my go-to weekend look.
While I’m still searching for the right vintage boots, I’m fortunate to have two new cowboy boots which fill the void at the moment. Keep reading for my guide to buying vintage cowboy boots!
Buying Vintage Cowboy Boots
First things first, when shopping for vintage (and new) cowboy boots, look for high-quality, leather boots that are made in America. “But aren’t all American cowboy boots made in the USA?” you may be asking. The truth is, many cowboy boots are now made overseas to lower costs, but there are still brands that hand make their boots right here in the US. When it comes to cowboy boots, remember the old adage “ you get what you pay for” so focus your search on quality if you’re looking for a classic boot to have in your closet for years.
How to Spot Quality
Higher quality, American-made boots will feature leather soles, unlike foreign made boots which usually have man made soles. Materials are usually stamped on the inside shaft of the boot or on the sole, so check there if you’re unsure about the materials. As with all leather goods, it should feel soft and supple – like butter! However, faux leather feels smooth, like plastic. So pick up the boots, inspect them, check the materials and feel the leather! If you’re shopping online, ask the seller specifically if the boots are made with leather.
Vintage Cowboy Boot Sizing
This is probably the trickiest part of shopping for cowboy boots in person or online. In person, you can physically try on the boots, of course, but you want to know what size to search for when shopping. There is an approximate 1.5 size difference between men’s and women’s sizing (e.g. a men’s size 7 is roughly equivalent to a women’s size 8.5). I usually search both men’s and women’s sizes to cover my bases. A little complicated at first, but you’ll get used to it. Also note that women’s cowboy boots typically come with a narrower heel as well as a taller arch than men’s boots.
While leather stretches the more you wear them, you still want to make sure you get the right size. I always recommend going up half a size when shopping online to avoid the boots being too small. It’s always easy to add insoles and thick socks, but it’s painful to try and stretch out boots.
If you have the option of trying on a new pair of boots from a specific brand like Lucchese, that can also help you identify your correct size!
Where to Buy Vintage Cowboy Boots
I see cowboy boots regularly at flea markets, thrift stores and on eBay. In my experience the flea market is most expensive because of their popularity but you can still find deals if you’re looking. Definitely keep an eye out at thrift stores, estate sales and of course my fave – eBay.
Bootstar – while they specialize in new boots, they do regular drops of vintage boots
Vintage Cowboy Boot Brands
Lucchese Boots
Lucchese is probably the best known high-end cowboy boot maker. The brand has been making Western boots for over a century and have been worn by U.S. presidents and countless celebrities. Most of their styles are still handmade by artisans in Texans. I love this brand and own two of their boots because of the luxe quality. Expect full-grain leather cowhides, exotic leathers, and unparalleled construction.
- Vintage Lucchese San Antonio TX Lizard Cowboy Boots 9 D USA! Black, $19
- Vintage Lucchese Cowboy Boots Made in the USA Men’s Size 9, $169
- Lucchese Classics Vintage Style Cowgirl Boots Size 7, $149
- VINTAGE LUCCHESE WOMEN’S BROWN OSTRICH COWBOY BOOTS SIZE 8B, $229
- Lucchese Vintage Black Cherry Men’s Cowboy Boots 9.5D, $125
- VINTAGE LUCCHESE WESTERN Cowboy Cowgirl Boots, Unisex, Mens Size 8, $205
- VTG WOMENS LUCCHESE 1883 SNIP TOE COWBOY SUEDE BROWN BOOTS SIZE 6.5 B, $119
Tony Lama Boots
Like other Western boot OGs, Tony Lama has been around since the late 1800s. But while many legendary bootmakers went the luxury route like Lucchese, Tony Lama committed itself to boots that were more affordable without sacrificing integrity or quality.
- Tony Lama 1970’s Women’s Cowboy Western Tall Boots Double Sided Butterfly Inlays, $325
- Vintage Tony Lama Made in USA Womens Cream Exotic Western Boots, $50
- TONY LAMA VTG BLACK LABEL BROWN TEJU LIZARD & LEATHER COWGIRL BOOTS WOMEN’S 6.5B, $45
- TONY LAMA Red Lizard Vintage Boots | Western Leather and Lizard Boots Women’s Size 6, $145
- Vintage Tony Lama Ostrich Cowboy Western Riding Boots Men’s Size 8, $82
- Navy & Gold Tony Lama Cowboy Boots size 8/9, $84
Frye Boots
Frye is best known for its work and dress boots, but they have always had a small collection of Western boots. Frye is a great option since I see them regularly at thrift stores and the prices are very reasonable.
- Vintage 1970s Frye Leather Cowboy Boots / Light Tan & Brown Western Boots / Retro Mid Calf Heel Shoes, $80
- VINTAGE FRYE WESTERN COWBOY BOOTS WOMEN SIZE 6B, $100
- VTG WOMENS FRYE COWBOY DISTRESSED BLACK BOOTS SIZE 6.5 B, $50
- Men’s Vintage Frye Western Boots, $150
- FRYE Cowgirl Boots Green Floral Inlay Leather Boots Western Rockabilly Boots Mid Calf Boots Women’s Size 8.5, $120
- FRYE Western Red Beige Exotic Leather Cowgirl Boots 6.5 AA Rodeo Show USA VTG, $75
Rios of Mercedes Boots
Rios of Mercedes Boots are handmade in Mercedes, Texas by master bootmakers who last, inlay, and stitch everything with meticulous attention to detail. These are the boots for you if you love simple, understated luxury. These are definitely an investment pair of boots that will last you a lifetime.
- Vintage Rios of Mercedes Classic Brown Cowboy Boots – Wmns Sz 7.5B Billy Martins, $229
- Rios Of Mercedes Vtg Cowboy Boots Mens 8, $135
- Vintage Rios of Mercedes western cowboy boots women size 6.5, $80
- Alligator Vintage Women’s Cowboy Boots; Rios of Mercedes; Size 6.5B, $475
- Vintage rios of mercedes womens Size 6.5b Blue Cowgirl Boots Ostrich Western, $150
Justin Boots
Justin Boots founder H. J. Justin mastered the craft of boot-making and established the western footwear brand in 1879. The same techniques and craftsmanship he used more than 130 years ago are still used at their US factory.
- Vintage Justin Red Snakeskin Calf High Western Boots Women’s Size 7.5 Style10224, $200
- Vintage Justin’s Leather Cowboy Boots – Size 7 womens, $100
- WOMENS VTG JUSTIN 2546 TALL BURGUNDY FLORAL ROSE COWBOY WESTERN BOOTS 5.5, $160
- Justin Vtg Teju Lizard Cowboy Boots Womens 6.5 C, $120
- WOMENS VTG JUSTIN 4897 TALL RED LEATHER COWBOY WESTERN BOOTS SZ 5.5, $100
- Vintage RARE Extra Tall Justin Women’s Cowboy Boots Grey/Red Heart Inlays 6.5, $315
- Womens Vintage Justin Lizard Cowboy Western Boots Size 6B Style # Y0048, $70
Cleaning & Storing Vintage Cowboy Boots
While I love the look of worn cowboy boots, it’s still imperative to clean and take care of your boots. Never clean boots with soap and water. Instead, use a slightly damp cloth or soft brush to clean off dirt and dust. Next use a leather conditioner using a clean, soft cloth to condition the entire boot. I prefer Cadillac Boot & Shoe Leather Lotion.
Store your cowboy boots upright with a cedar boot tree inside, if possible. Cedar shoe trees help to absorb any moisture and help retain the boots’ original shape and prevent the toes from curling.