Thrift Kit: Understanding Fabrics
In my recent Instagram posts about thrifting and vintage shopping, I received several questions about which items I grabbed immediately versus those I put back. For example, modern polyester makes me sweat like satan’s armpit as I like to joke so I never even pick it up. However, poly jersey blends from the 60s and 70s are super wearable for me! I can usually tell which fabrics to avoid just by looking at or feeling them. The same goes for the materials I love and know will wash well, wear well, and last a long time. Understanding fabrics can elevate your shopping experience, ensuring your finds are high-quality and timeless.
Wool
Wool, in its various forms, is a cornerstone of vintage fashion. With proper care, wool garments can last decades and are super durable. I look for vintage coats, blazers, and sweaters made from pure wool, cashmere, or merino wool.
Avoid: Wool blends with high synthetic content, as they lack the same longevity and can pill or wear out more quickly. I also find super synthetic blends to be extremely itchy.
Cotton
Cotton is a staple in vintage fashion and in my closet year round. When shopping, check for high-quality cotton weaves such as Egyptian cotton or Indian cotton known for their softness. At the top of my shopping list as Edwardian cotton dresses, skirts, and blouses, but I will snatch up a vintage cotton dress in a fun print and nice silhouette.
Avoid: Thin, worn-out cotton fabrics that show signs of extensive wear or discoloration. I always check the collar on button downs and the waist on dresses and skirt for any wear. I also note wear on button holes as some may be damaged beyond repair (I’ve learned from personal experience!)
Silk
As you know, I love my silk slip dresses and I will die on this hill! Beyond vintage silk dresses,I also look for skirts, blouses and pants for their elegant drape and sheen. I like to feel the fabric: silk should be smooth, cool to the touch, and have a subtle luster.
Avoid: Silk blends with high polyester content, as they tend to age poorly and have a very shiny look that cheapens the garment. Some blends are really tricky so I always as another shopper for their input on whether it’s a poly blend or not!
Linen
Another favorite is linen and one of the more wearable fabrics for warm weather. Vintage linen pieces, such as summer dresses, shirts, and suits, offer a relaxed yet refined look. Linen becomes softer with each wash, so opting for vintage means you’re getting a perfectly wearable and soft garment to enjoy for yourself.
Avoid: Much like wear on cotton pieces, avoid overly wrinkled or thinned linen, as it may indicate extensive wear and potential weakening of the fabric.
Leather
Leather is often overlooked in my opinion because it can be difficult to clean; however with just a bit of leather conditioner you can revive vintage leather to enjoy for years. Leather is just one of those materials that is on my list across the board – clothing, shoes, handbags and accessories! Look for full-grain or top-grain leather for the best quality.
Avoid: Bonded leather or heavily treated leather, which lacks authentic aging of higher-quality leather.
Sustainability
If you care about the sustainability of your clothing and the various materials, all of the fabrics above, including leather are considered natural materials. They will all decompose quickly in a landfill compared to manmade materials such as polyester. For reference, cotton will decompose in 6 months, linen in a few weeks, silk in 1-4 years, and leather in about 10-40 years. Polyester can take up to 200 years to decompose.
Fabrics and Silhouettes to Approach with Caution
Polyester
Polyester became popular in the 50s thanks to its wrinkle-resistiant properties, but it also lacks the natural breathability and feel of organic fibers like cotton and linen. Vintage polyester items often show signs of wear such as pilling, color fading, and loss of shape. For example, I’ve found so many cool polyester pieces but the underarms are discolored overtime which is not something that I often see with cotton or linen. As noted above, I like jersey blend polyester as it provides more breathability.
Nylon
Nylon has a synthetic shine and feel that makes me think it’ll melt if I get close to any heat. While I’ll make exceptions for some nylon slips and windbreaker style jackets (they’re just so good), I avoid most other pieces as the material just look too fake and cheap in my opinion.
The ability to identify quality materials by sight and touch not only enhances the thrill of the hunt but also ensures that the pieces I choose will stand the test of time. By prioritizing natural, high-quality fabrics and being mindful of what to avoid, you too can elevate your vintage shopping experience.
