The Shopping List No. 9: Vintage Designer Costume Jewelry

I was recently talking to a friend about vintage and designer goods and that it’s taken me a long time to amass a collection. One of those is my costume jewelry collection which I’ve been adding to for over 20 years. It started with a Givenchy necklace and most recently I added some incredible Givenchy dangle earrings. While there is tons of vintage costume jewelry out there that is unbranded, I think the following designers deserve a spot in every vintage lover’s jewelry box. Collections from these designers are unique and hold value over the years. Of course the luxury designers tend to be on the very expensive side, but other lesser known designers offer the same quality but at a lower price.

I’m going to say it – vintage Chanel jewelry is about 100 times better than the new stuff. While costume jewelry was intended to mimic fine jewelry for those who couldn’t afford the real deal, Chanel changed this concept. She advocated that jewelry should be worn to decorate, rather than display wealth. Chanel was the original stacker of jewelry and mixing high and low. She loved accessorizing with several pieces of jewelry, not just one or two expensive pieces. Chanel jewelry during the 1940s is not signed and very rare to find. It wasn’t until the 50s that Chanel jewelry was stamped with the CHANEL signature. If you’re just starting your Chanel jewelry collection, start with classic CC earrings or necklace. I’ve said this so many times, but vintage Chanel earrings are the easiest way to dress up any outfit. Just add them to a denim and tee look with red lips and you are ready to go.

My curated picks:

Vintage Chanel Gold Tone COCO Choker, $599
Chanel Black Leather ID Logo Chain Belt, $1895
Chanel Gold Medallion Necklace, $1600
CHANEL Gold Plated CC Logos Round Clip Earrings, $180
Chanel Gold CC Charm Bracelet, $880
Chanel Gold CC Earrings, $1080

Edouard Rambaud was a fabulous 1980’s designer and created big runway earrings, charm belts and gorgeous jewelled bags! Edouard Rambaud was famous for his use of hearts, suns, stars, and crosses in his designs. Inspired by ancient Greek or Roman jewels, his jewelry has a characteristic baroque touch. He made big bold jewelry and belts using a lot of gold and platinum with large crystals and semi-precious stones with uneven surfaces. By far I love Rambaud’s belts which are statement pieces and far cheaper than Chanel, Moschino and other brands.

My curated picks:

Elsa Schiaparelli

Elsa Schiaparelli was the most popular fashion designer in 1930s Paris. Her collections featured odd miniature hats, trompe l’oeil prints, or buttons formed like everyday objects. Shiaparelli believed that costume jewelry is both an independent art and an integral part of clothing. Schiaparelli designs had unexpected forms – she used circus and astrological motifs, and the natural forms of flora and fauna. While Chanel tends to be more classic and refined, Schiaparelli’s designs are surreal, fun and flamboyant.

My curated picks:

Givenchy

Givenchy drew on both his aristocratic ancestry (he was a Count) and artistic forebears (he studied at studied at the École des Beaux-Arts) to create elegant jewelry that women of all social classes immediately collected. Givenchy jewelry was famous for his use of faux pearls, rhinestones, polished glass and plated metals, which is why they are collectibles now. Many pieces incorporate the “Double G” logo as part of the design, often on the clasp. The quality, materials and design are impeccable, while more affordable than other fashion designers’ collections.

My curated picks:

Monet is known for its line of vintage accessories which include custom made items in the style of fine jewelry but at an affordable price point. Monet pioneered a movement toward accessible jewelry items for those who couldn’t afford luxury – think Chanel or Givenchy for the masses. Their claim-to-fame was being the first brand to manufacture pieces with their trademark. Vintage Monet pieces are known for their craftsmanship, elaborate designs, and rhinestones. During the 1930’s and 1940’s, Monet Jewelry took inspiration from European fashion designers and created intricate, creative metalwork pieces. I love Monet bracelets, necklaces and brooches which tend to have the aesthetic of Chanel or YSL, but with a bit more flair. All of my pieces hold up very well and if the gold tone starts to wear off, I have it gold dipped at the jewelry mart for $10! Monet still designs costume jewelry today, but the vintage necklaces and bracelets are by far better designed and better quality.

My curated picks:

Whiting & Davis is known for its snake coiled bracelets and mesh necklaces and purses. The very first mesh purse was created by Charles Whiting in 1892! While the original mesh purse was made entirely by hand — artisans hammered out the links and wove them together — the company developed a machine to automate fabrication in 1912. The purses became status icons in the 1920s. Over the years, Whiting & Davis struck up partnerships with Paul Poiret, Elsa Schiaparelli and Elsa Peretti, who used their mesh in elegant pieces for Tiffany & Co. In the 1970s, Whiting & Davis accessories and clothing were the rage of the disco scene – think snake coil arm bands, mesh tops, and bags. While Whiting and Davis is known for their mesh bags, I’ll forever be obsessed with their snake coil bracelets and necklaces.

My curated picks:

A protégé and former designer of Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent founded his fashion house in 1961 and the following year released the first collection of his costume jewelry. The style of his jewelry ranges from elegant classical to exotic refined, which is why I love collecting YSL. According to Yves Saint Laurent, people underestimate the importance of accessories – I agree! While much of YSL’s fashion collection is not so simple, the jewelry line is the gaudy goodness you think of when you imagine gold, embellished, chunky pieces. I have a 60s large cross brooch which has been set faceted glass jewels in ruby, emerald, sapphire, and amethyst, and faux pearls. I got it at an auction for $3 and it’s the best add-on for outfits. I think brooches and pins can be a bit mature, but one from YSL is the right balance of gaudy chic!

My curated picks:

Where to Shop

If I’m not looking for a particular piece, then I always start at the flea market, estate sale, or thrift store. I go through jewelry piles and stacks until something catches my eye. I have found plenty of Monet pieces for under $5 at estate sales and thrift store. However, if I want designer pieces, then I have to go a bit higher end and hit up my favorite vintage market, boutique, or the usual online spots.

I’m not shy about admitting my love for eBay, Etsy, and Vestiaire Collective – I find that they offer the most competitive prices, authenticity guarantees, user experience and shopability, and seller communication which allows for a seamless purchase. You already know the trick to eBay saved searches and the wish list/favorite function on Vestiaire Collective, so it makes finding specific items a cinch. Similar to my tips for buying vintage and second hand designer bags, always ask for tons of pictures and ensure the seller offers an authenticity guarantee. (use code US4U6V for $50 off any purchase +$150 on Vestiaire)

Some more tips:

Always check the photos posted by the seller to make sure they are not from other sites. You can quickly do a reverse Google image to see if the images are from another site.
If a seller is not eager to answer your questions or seems evasive, move on!
Do your research. Learn as much as you can about the jewelry, such as the history of the design or collection. This mini guide is a starting point to help you learn more about these designers. Even I do tons of research to determine when a particular piece was made and I am a very knowledgable and confident buyer.
Only buy pieces that require repair if you have a trusted jewelry repair person. I visit the jewelry mart in downtown Los Angeles regularly and I have my go-to repair person, so I’m comfortable with buying pieces that need TLC.